6. House Plants: their Cultivation and Propagation

Achimenes

These plants are suitable only for a very well-lighted window. They grow 9-12 inches in height on rather slender, slightly hairy stems and bear very attractive red, blue, purple or white flowers in summer. The blooms, which are about 1 inch across, are round and flattened with a slender basal tube. The oval leaves are coarse and slightly hairy.

Achimenes is grown from small rhizomes which are cylindrical and resemble caterpillars. The 'bulbs', as they are commonly called, are planted in a compost of equal parts of peat and loam. Six 'bulbs' are set ½inch deep in a 5-inch pot, in March.

The pot of 'bulbs' is placed in a glass-covered box in a warm room, but when shoots are forming full light and air are needed.

The soil must be kept moist during the growing period, but when the stems die down, watering is discontinued and the compost is kept dry until potting time in spring. The 'bulbs' are then shaken out of the compost and repotted in fresh material.

When cultivating these plants in rooms, no attempt must be made to force them into growth.

Adiantum cuneatum (Maidenhair Fern)

There are few plants which can equal this fern in grace and beauty of foliage. It can be grown successfully as a house-plant, but it needs careful treatment to make it sufficiently hardy to withstand the uncongenial conditions of dwelling rooms.

Whenever possible, plants should be obtained in early summer after all need for artificial heat is over. They will then be sufficiently hardened to withstand room conditions when winter comes.

On the approach of winter, the compost should be gradually dried off until the fronds wither; the ferns can then be stored in a frost-proof room where they will be safe until the following spring.

When the young fronds start to uncurl in the spring, the compost must be well moistened and the plants repotted into fresh compost or, if they are not tightly packed with roots, a little of the top soil can be pricked away with a pointed stick and replaced with new compost. Pot-bound plants must, however, be set in slightly larger pots. For top-dressing or repotting, a light rich compost is required. John Innes Potting Compost No. 2 may be used, or a mixture of equal parts of loam and leaf-mould or granulated peat, which will also produce excellent results.

The maidenhair fern, like the majority of species of the genus Adiantum, grows most vigorously in semi-shade.

When the plants become large and pot-bound and it is not desired that they should be transferred to larger pots, they may be divided at potting time and set in separate pots.

Adiantum cuneatum is the most popular species, but there are many other forms, such as A.farleyense with larger pinnae (leaflets) and A. gracillimum, a very graceful small-leaved type. Both of these forms are, however, more difficult to grow than the type A. cuneatum, and are more suited for warm greenhouse culture.

Aloe variegata (Partridge-breasted Aloe)

The popular name of this succulent plant, botanically known as Aloe variegata, is very descriptive because the leaves are striped with alternate bands of green and silver. Its triangular leaves, which are pointed and stalkless, are formed in a dense cluster close to the soil and point upwards at an acute angle (Fig. 20).

From the centre of the rosette of leaves, the flower spike is developed in summer. The spike is about 6 inches in length with numerous, pendent, bell-shaped, pink flowers.

Being of a succulent nature, it is an ideal plant for a sunny window, and it is not adversely affected by a dry atmosphere. The best potting compost consists of 2 parts of loam, 1 part of leaf-mould or peat and 1 part of sand and broken crocks. Young plants can be raised from seeds, or by detaching and planting the sucker shoots.

Fig. 20. Aloe varkgata Partridge-breasted Aloe

Ananas comosus (Pineapple)

Ananas comosus is the botanical name of the edible pineapple. It is quite attractive as a foliage plant for a dwelling room, and when given suitable treatment will bear succulent fruit, but needs the conditions of a hot-house to develop pineapples of large size (Fig. 21).

The tuft of foliage can be cut from the top of the fruit and inserted in a warm propagator. It is best to lay the 'cutting' on a shelf to promote the formation of a protective skin on the cut surface before inserting it into pure silver sand, which is the best rooting medium. The plant, which has strap-shaped, prickly edged leaves, needs a rich compost to develop its fruits. The best soil mixture consists of 2 parts of loam, 1 of leaf-mould or peat and one of well-decayed manure.

Anthericum (see Chlorophytum)

Anthurium scherzerianum (Flamingo Flower)

Until recent years, Anthurium was grown only in warm green­houses, but it is now a popular house-plant. It forms a rosette of large, tough, shield-shaped, dark green leaves and develops its brilliant spathes of scarlet 'flowers' during the summer months (Fig. 22).

The natural home of these plants is tropical America. They cannot be grown throughout the year in rooms, but may be used as temporary features of decoration in the house. During the winter months the plants must be kept entirely in a warm greenhouse.

Ordinary potting compost is unsuitable for Anthurium. A mixture of 3 parts of peat, 1 of Sphagnum moss and 1 part of Small pieces of broken crocks with a few lumps of charcoal is the most satisfactory for healthy growth.

Fig. 21. Ananas comosus var. sativus (Pineapple)

Fig. 22. Anthurium scherzerianutn (Flamingo Flower)

The plants are increased by dividing them and setting the divided portions in separate pots. Abundance of water is required in the growing season (April-September); but for the remainder of the year watering should be done only when the compost becomes moderately dry.

Fig. 23. Aphelandra squarrosa

In addition to the typical A. scherzerianum, which has scarlet spathes, there are many other species and varieties with spathes of varied shades of red and pink as well as white-spotted.

Aphelandra

The chief kind suitable for growth in rooms is A. aurantiaca. It is native of Brazil and does not withstand low temperatures. When grown indoors, it must be protected from cold draughts or it will quickly shed its foliage. The plants have stout upright stems and arc furnished with large oval leaves.

The stems are terminated with spikes of very attractive flowers. A. aurantiaca var. roezlii has scarlet flowers of great beauty. It does best in a compost of equal parts of loam and granulated peat, to which some silver sand and crushed charcoal are added.

The best results are obtained by raising young plants annually from 'cuttings'. These 'cuttings' are about 2 inches in length, and are taken from the growing tips or young side shoots. They are inserted in a propagating glass-covered case in which a minimum temperature of 6o° F. is maintained. When sufficient roots have formed, the 'cuttings' are potted separately and grown on to flowering size, when they form highly attractive plants.

A.squarrosa is a very handsome plant (Fig. 23). The leaves, which are lanceolate, 6 inches in length and 2-3 inches across, are glossy and deep green in colour, with silvery veins. The plant produces a large terminal spike of yellow flowers in winter.

Aporocactus (Cereus) (Rat's Tail Cactus)

The popular window plant, A. flagelliformis, is commonly known as the rat's tail cactus. Its stems are long, round, prickly and slender, bearing rose-coloured flowers in summer. Owing to its pendent habit, it is usually grown in a hanging basket or pot in which its stems, sometimes 18 inches in length, hang down in a profusion of blooms.

To produce the maximum number of flowers, the plant must be set in a sunny window.

A very rich compost is not suitable, as this leads to soft growth. 3 parts of loam and one part of an equal mixture of sand and small crocks form the best compost. From April until September the compost must be kept moist; but during the remainder of the year watering should be done only when the soil becomes quite dry.

Propagation is by inserting shoots in pots of sandy soil set on the window-sill in summer, or by grafting on stems of other species in spring or summer (see also Chapter 2).

Araucaria excelsa

Sometimes called the Norfolk Island pine, this plant has been very popular as a house plant for many years. It looks like a Christmas tree but the branches are borne in separate flat tiers, several inches apart (Fig. 24). Being of a vigorous constitution, Araucaria excelsa grows to a huge size after a few years, but young plants are obtainable by inserting 'cuttings' of the tips of the shoots. A warm propagator is necessary for propagation. Seeds can also be sown to raise new plants.

A special soil mixture is not needed, an ordinary mixture of loam, peat and sand being suitable. Watering must be attended to regularly, for if the compost becomes too dry or too wet, the lower leaves turn brown and die.

Artillery Plant (see Pilea) Asparagus 'Ferns'

Although popularly known as ferns, these plants belong to the lily family. They are of easy culture and are ideal room plants, because they can withstand the atmospheric conditions of the house.

Fig. 25. Asparagus plumosus nanus

The two principal species used for house decoration are A. sprengeri and A. plumosus. The former has needle-like 'leaves' produced on long trailing stems. It also makes an ideal basket plant and when well established is decorated with small white flowers. The other species, A. plumosus, has very fine feathery 'foliage', borne on slender wiry stems. There are two forms. A. plumosus is a trailer and is often grown  to furnish  the  rafters and pillars of a conservatory, but A. Asparagus plumom plumosus nanus is of a dwarf habit and, owing to its com­pactness, is the better of the two for growing in small pots (Fig. 25).

Both species may be increased by dividing overgrown plants. This is best done in early spring. The divided portions are potted into a good soil mixture, such as John Innes Pot­ting Compost No. 1, or a mixture of 2 parts of loam, 1 of leaf-mould or peat and a small amount of silver sand.

When the pots are filled with roots, abundance of water is Fig. 24. Araucaria exceha     required,         although much less is needed during the winter. The plants will flourish in a room where the temperature does not fall below 45o F. From seeds sown in a light sandy compost in early summer, and set in a warm greenhouse or room, an abundance of young plants -will be obtained.

Aspidistra lurida (Parlour Palm)

During the reign of Queen Victoria, this was one of the most popular room plants. It flourished where most plants would languish and die. After the First World War, its popularity declined; but, owing to the new interest in house-plants, it is once again regaining its popularity.

Aspidistra belongs to the lily family, and when well established, develops star-shaped purplish flowers on the stems close to the soil.

An ordinary potting soil of loam or light garden soil enriched with some leaf-mould and lightened with a small amount of silver sand constitutes the ideal compost. When the plants are repotted, it is most essential that the pots should be properly drained. A badly drained compost will cause the tips of the leaves to turn brown and die. As for other pot plants, it should be watered only when the compost becomes moderately dry and then a thorough watering must be given.

To maintain the plants in a healthy condition, the leaves must be occasionally sponged with soapy water in which a little insecticide has been dissolved. In mild weather, it is an excellent plan to stand the plants out of doors during showers. Pot-bound specimens can be divided, and the divided portions set in smaller pots. This operation is best done when new leaves appear in spring.

Asplenium (Spleenwort)

This name has been given to the genus because of its supposed medicinal virtues. It is a very large genus but only two species have become popular house-plants—A. bulbiferum and A. nidus, both of which can be grown permanently in dwelling rooms.

Like most other ferns, they can be used for furnishing shady corners where they are more flourishing than when exposed to strong sunlight. A cool atmosphere which does not fall below 45° F. in winter, and where the plants are not subjected to gas fumes, draughts or dry artificial heat, provides the ideal growing conditions.

These ferns flourish in a compost of fibrous materials which are rich in plant food, such as leaf-mould, or granulated peat to which an equal amount of loam is added. A close, tightly packed mixture is undesirable. Like most ferns, these species are best suited by a moist rooting medium, and the compost must not be allowed to remain very dry for any length of time, although less frequent watering is required in winter, when the plants are less active.

Asplenium bulbiferum is so called because it bears small plantlets on its fronds. These somewhat resemble parsley leaves and the plant is therefore commonly called the parsley fern. The bulblets can be taken off and grown to form new plants. If they are pricked out in a pot of light compost and a pane of glass is laid over the pot, they quickly form new plants.

Asplenium nidus has been given the name of bird's nest fern because its leaves are formed in a circular crown, resembling a shuttlecock or nest. It does not produce young plants freely and therefore is not easy to propagate vegetatively. A fibrous compost of loam and peat in which crushed brick is incorporated makes the ideal compost. Good drainage is essential. Its leaves are glossy and smooth and are easily kept clean by sponging them. A native of the tropics, it requires a warm, but not hot, dry atmosphere. It should be watered only when the compost is fairly dry.

Azalea indica (Rhododendron)

Although popularly known as azaleas, these plants are now classified by botanists as rhododendrons (Fig. 26).

Fig. 26. Azalea indica (Rhododendron)

They are the most difficult plants to grow in rooms. Generally these plants are purchased at Christmas time in full flower and before long the leaves fall, leaving nothing but bare stems. People often make the mistake of setting them in -warm rooms where the atmosphere is hot and dry. The life of the plants would be pro­longed if they were set in a cool room unheated but where the temperature did not fall below 400 F. The soil should be kept quite moist until the flowers fade when the plants must be placed in a cool greenhouse.

If kept entirely in rooms, they form weak shoots which cannot produce blooms.

Those who have a greenhouse should repot the plants into a compost of 4 parts of fibrous peat and 1 of silver sand. The plants should be knocked out of their pots, and a little of the compost pricked away with a pointed stick. The pots must be well crocked, and when repotting is done a potting stick must be used to make the compost very firm.

To keep the foliage fresh and active, the leaves must be syringed frequently during the daytime. After a few weeks, when new roots will have been formed, the plants can be placed in a cold frame and gradually hardened off until they are ready to be set out of doors in a sunny position. By careful attention to watering, flower buds will form at the ends of the shoots. Then, at the beginning of October, the plants can be taken in a warm green­house and gently forced into bloom.

Begonia (Foliage & Flowering Species)

There are a large number of species of Begonia but only a few are suitable for room cultivation. The most popular is Begonia tuberosa, which can be grown entirely without artificial heat if the tubers are started into growth in late March or early April. Tubers which have been started into growth can be obtained from nurserymen and potted up in early spring.

To start the dry tubers into growth they must be set out in a shallow tray or seedbox. Granulated peat or leaf-mould should be spread in the receptacle to 1 inch in depth and the tubers pressed into it at about 1 inch apart. A pane of glass should be placed on the box which can then be set in a warm position in the dwelling room. When shoots start to form, the glass must be removed and after 2-3 weeks each plant set sep­arately into a 3½-inch pot, and later into a 5 or 6-inch pot in which it will flower profusely during the summer. When the plants have flowered, the compost must be gradually dried off and the corms stored in a cool, frost-proof place until potting time in the following spring.

Fig. 27. Begonia rex

Pride of St. Albans variety

B. semperflorens is fibrous-rooted having no tubers or corms. Of dwarf compact habit and profusely floriferous, these begonias are ex­tensively used for summer-bedding but also make ideal plants for sunny windows. Plants should be obtained from nurserymen and potted up into 3-inch pots in April or May. When well rooted, they may be reset in 5-inch pots where they will provide abundance of small blooms throughout the summer and autumn. A few blooms will also be produced during the winter and spring, at which time the plants can be repotted into fresh compost.

Fig. 28. Begonia Gloire de Lorraine Winter-flowering

B. rex is a foliage plant (Fig. 27). It has lop-sided variegated leaves of many shades including silver and crimson. Since this plant flourishes in semi-shade, it is ideal for the house. As for other room-plants, it is best to obtain plants in late spring, when the weather is mild and they have a chance to become acclimatised.

B. haageana is one of the easiest of the fibrous-rooted species to grow in a room. It grows up to 2 feet in height, has large rosy-red leaves and produces immense trusses of pale pink flowers through­out the year, although the plants are most prolific during the spring, summer and autumn months. Those who have a warm greenhouse can increase B. haageanaby taking 'cuttings' and setting them in a warm glass-covered propagator in spring.

Fig. 29. Beloperone guttata (Shrimp Plant)

B. Gloire de Lorraine is a form which cannot be cultivated entirely in a room; but it is very popular for decorating the home when in full flower in midwinter (Fig. 28). It can be obtained from florists' shops inDecember when the shoots are densely furnished with pale, rich pink flowers. If the plants are set in a cool but frost-proof room and the compost kept moist, they will last in bloom for weeks, if a warm greenhouse is available, this plant can be increased by taking basal 'cuttings' in spring. A glass-covered bottom-heated propagator is necessary to raise new plants. Propagation is also effected by detaching mature leaves, cut­ting notches just below the junc­tions of the largest veins and laying the prepared leaves on compost in a propagating case. The best com­post for potting consists of equal parts of leaf-mould or peat and fibrous loam to which sufficient silver sand has been added to render it porous. This compost is also  suitable for most  species of

Begonia; John Innes Potting Com-       Fig 2Q Beloperoneguttata

post may be used.                (Shrimp Plant)

Bellflower (see Campanula) Beloperone guttata (Shrimp Plant)
The common name shrimp plant has been given because the clusters of flowers bear a fanciful resemblance to shrimps. It has recently become very popular as a house-plant and produces an abundance of attractive flowers during the greater part of the year (Fig. 29).

This shrubby plant grows 2-3 feet in height and has pendent inflorescences of small flowers, with large pink bracts.

Beloperone needs a rich compost and must be set in a cool, well-lighted position. The plants eventually become leggy; but new ones are easily obtained by inserting 'cuttings' in well-drained pots of sandy soil placed under a bell-jar or glass-covered box in spring.

Billbergia zebrine

Being of tropical origin, Billbergia is suitable only for a warm room. B. zebrina is of peculiar formation and produces a hollow tube of tough, green, leathery leaves 2-3 feet in length with grey horizontal bands. The flower spike is formed inside the tube and later hangs over its apex producing a large cluster of flowers with attractive pink bracts (Fig. 30).

A suitable compost is formed of 2 parts of loam and 1 of equal parts of silver sand, peat and broken flower-pot crocks.

As the leaves are tough, leathery and glossy, they do not transpire rapidly and the plants can withstand the dry atmosphere of rooms and dry soil conditions for long periods, although more frequent waterings are required during the summer months.

New plants are obtainable by detaching the basal side shoots and inserting them in sandy compost in summer.

B. nutans does not grow so tall as B. zebrina, but forms an elongated rosette of tough green leaves about 12 inches in length. Like B. zebrina, it forms its flowers from inside the funnel of leaves and these are developed in a semi-pendent spray. The flowers, which have large rosy bracts, are reddish and yellowish-green with blue edges to the petals. This plant is very suitable for room cultivation.

Fig. 30. Billhergia zebrine

Bowstring Hemp (see Sansevieria) Bryophyllum {Kalanchoë)

Bryophyllum {Kalanchoë) crenatum and B. daigremontianum are grown principally for their botanical interest. They both develop small plantlets on the margins of their leaves. It is only necessary to lay a leaf of either of these species on the surface of a pan of soil to obtain a number of new plants. The marginal buds quickly develop into plantlets which can be detached and planted in pots of ordinary compost. B. crenatum has roundish leaves about i inch across, and B. daigremontianum, which is the more vigorous of the two species, has oval leaves 3-4 inches in length; the plantlets developed on the edges of the leaves of B. daigremon­tianum are much larger and more conspicuous than those of B. crenatum.

Busy Lizzie (see Impatiens)

Cacti and other Succulent Plants

Cacti are members of the family Cactaceae, whilst other succulent plants are placed in different families such as Liliaceae {Aloe) and Crassulaceae {Crassula).

The Cactaceae form an enormous family, most of which are grown for their peculiar structure, although some species have very beautiful flowers. The principal kinds with large attractive flowers are:

Aporocactusflagelliformis    (rat's tail cactus)

Echinocereusfendleri        (hedge-hog cactus)

Echinopsis eyriesii (Fig. 31) (hedge-hog cactus) Epiphyllum ackermannii     (leaf-flowering cactus) Mammillaria prolifera         (nipple cactus) Schlumbergera truncata        (Christmas cactus)

Fig. 32. Succulent plants in an ornamental pan

Cacti are the easiest of all plants to grow in living rooms because they are provided with a very thick cuticle which prevents rapid loss of water vapour by transpiration. Also they are capable of storing re­serves of moisture in their tissues upon which they can draw during long rainless periods, as they have to do when growing naturally in their desert habitats.

Although cacti can go for long periods without drawing moisture from the soil, they require a considerable amount dur­ing their growing season.

Fig. 31. Echinopsis eyriesii

The growing season for most cacti is April-September, when they should be watered as soon as the soil becomes dry. From September onwards less water is required, and during the middle of the winter the plants can remain without being watered for several weeks. As the days lengthen in spring and the atmosphere becomes warmer, watering is done more frequently and the amount of water gradually increased until normal watering is done from April onwards.

When growing in their native homes, cacti arc fully exposed to hot sunshine, and it is therefore desirable to set them in a sunny window. This is especially necessary with flowering species, which will produce flower buds only when the stems of the plants are well ripened.

A rich compost is not necessary for the majority of the cacti. The principal ingredient of the compost is sandy loam; to this should be added a little coarse silver sand or powdered brick, which helps to keep the compost open and well drained.

The pots must also be well drained with crocks, so that water will run away freely through the compost.

Cacti can be kept growing in the same pots for a number of years provided they are given sufficient water during the summer months. Eventually the pots become tightly packed with roots and very often they exert so great a pressure that they burst the pots.

Before this occurs the plants must be repotted into slightly larger pots which should be well provided with drainage. The compost should be made firm with a potting stick and this operation is best done in early spring.

Other succulents do not belong to the Cactus family (Cac-taceae), although their structure is similar in some respects to that of the true cacti. The best kinds to use as house-plants are as follows:

Aloe varkgata (partridge-breasted aloe)        Liliaceae

Crassula (Rochea) falcata     Crassulaceae

Gasteria verrucosa                Liliaceae

Kalanchoe blossfeldiana        Crassulaceae

Kleinia (Senecio) articulata (candle plant)       Compositae

Rochea coccinea                          Crassulaceae

These are the best of the succulents (other than cacti) which are grown principally for their attractive flowers.

Methods of propagation are given in Chapter 2.

Ornamental glazed bowls of various shapes, colours and sizes, filled with small succulent plants, are extremely popular for room decoration. This is especially so at Christmas time, when large numbers are bought for Christmas presents. These bowl gardens are easy to make, and, if the right plants are selected, they provide much pleasure and interest for many years (Fig. 32).

Glazed bowls make the best containers because they can be set on tables or window-sills without damaging the furniture. Bowls of a porous nature must be avoided because moisture will ooze through and damage the woodwork.

The compost must be of a nature which will not stimulate active growth because the aim must be to keep the plant in a miniature state as long as possible. Sandy soil containing plenty of coarse sand or gravel is a very suitable compost. It must be in a moist but not wet condition when the cacti are planted because very wet or very dry soils cannot be made firm.

Before filling the bowls with compost a generous layer of peat gravel or builder's brick, broken to ¼-inch sizes, should be placed in the bottom to serve for drainage.

The arrangement of the plants must of course be left to the taste of the individual, but generally it will be found that one or two columnar plants set towards the back of the bowl will prevent a flat appearance of the bowl 'gardens'.

After the plants have been set in position, a few miniature rock-like pieces of sandstone may be arranged to give a natural effect and finally the surface should be covered with a thin coating of fine gravel. This is best obtained by sifting silver sand with a sieve having a base of perforated zinc. With this device the fine sand can he sifted out and discarded and the coarser material spread sufficiently thickly over the surface of the 'garden' to obscure the compost.

When planting has been completed, the compost must be thoroughly moistened and no more watering should be done until the compost becomes quite dry. Being desert plants, cacti naturally require a sunny position and during the winter they must be protected from frost. Succulents benefit from being kept clean by spraying with clean water at frequent intervals, and they must have plenty of fresh air on all favourable occasions.

Most of the plants belonging to the Cactaceae are suitable, especially Echinopsis, Echinocactus, Echinocereus, Mammillaria and Rebutia. They grow slowly and can remain in the same bowls for many years.

Many of the non-cactaceous succulents, however, are very popular for making these miniature 'gardens' because they can be raised quickly from seeds or 'cuttings', but, being of more rapid growth, they fill the bowls more quickly and need to be replaced with smaller plants after a year or two.

The best of these plants are Gasteria, Haworthia, Sempervivum and Stapelia, of which there are many varieties. As these suc­culents grow more rapidly than the true cacti they naturally require more frequent watering.

Campanula isophylla (Trailing Bell-flower)

The principal species of the genus Campanula grown in rooms is C. isophylla, with blue flowers, and the white form, C. i. alba

(Fig- 33).

It is almost hardy and does well in a room which is not heated except to keep the temperature just above freezing point. The plant has slender pendent stems clothed with smooth green leaves and terminated with loose clusters of saucer-shaped flowers in summer.

If desired, the stems can be tied to a cane, thrust into the centre of the compost, to form a floral pyramid of blooms. A rich compost is not needed; ordinary light garden soil enriched with peat or leaf-mould suits its modest requirements. When the plant is growing freely, the compost must be kept moist, but at other times the compost should be watered only when it becomes dry.

Fig. 33. Campanula isophylla alba

Propagation is by 'cuttings' of young shoots or division of plants in March.

Castor Oil Plant (see Ricinus)

Castor Oil Plant, False (seeFatsia) Cereusflagelliformis (see Aporocactus) Ceropegia woodii (Hearts Entangled)

This plant is ideal for a sunny window and is quite suitable for an ordinary dwelling room, because, owing to its thick fleshy leaves, it can withstand a dry atmosphere and tolerate very dry soil conditions. It is best to grow Ceropegia in a hanging basket where its long, thin, thread-like stems can hang downwards to display the small, purplish, heart-shaped leaves and dainty, tubular, purplish flowers. The stem joints become swollen and tuberous, and these contain a store of food.

A compost containing plenty of grit or small stones is the most suitable because it produces well-ripened floriferous growth.

The plant is easy to increase by detaching the swollen joints, each containing roots and a portion of stem, and setting them in separate small pots.

Chlorophytum elatum variegatum (Anthericum)

This very old-fashioned but still popular plant is grown for the beauty of its ornamental foliage. It forms a cluster of narrow, strap-shaped, green and cream variegated leaves which grow to 9-12 inches in length. Very long slender flower spikes, bearing small white flowers, and side-shoots which form leaf rosettes, develop from the centres of the plants. These rosettes of leaves can be detached and potted up to form separate plants. Chloro­phytum requires an abundance of water except during the winter months, but even then the soil must not be allowed to become very dry.

It is an ideal room-plant for a sunny or semi-shaded position and is almost hardy.

Christmas Cactus (see Schlumbergera, formerly Zygocactus) Cineraria {Senecio) cruenta This popular house-plant (Fig. 34) is in great demand for room decora­tion in winter and spring. Its large, coloured daisy-like flowers, which are produced in great profusion, last in bloom for many weeks. There are three distinct kinds; the grandiflora or large-flowered, the stellata or star-flowered and the intermediate forms which are similar to the star-flowered varieties but are intermediate in size of flower and habit of growth.

Cinerarias are popular because of their rich blue flowers; but there are also varieties with red and purple shades as well as white. The plants form wide spreading heads of bloom which remain attractive for many weeks in winter and spring. Although Cineraria is one of the most popular of room-plants when in bloom, a greenhouse is needed for its cultivation.

Seeds are sown in May, June or July, and the earliest sowing provides flowering plants for midwinter. A light porous compost is needed for raising the seedlings and the John Innes Potting Compost No. 1 is ideal for the purpose. The seed pot, when sown, is set in a cold frame and when the seedlings appear they are pricked  out in a seed tray.

Fig. 34. Cineraria {Senecio) cmenta

As soon as large enough, they are potted singly into 3^-inch pots and later transferred to 5 or 6-inch pots, according to the vigour of the plants.

In early autumn, the plants are placed in a cool greenhouse or kept in a frame where they can be protected from frost. On the approach of very cold weather, the plants are taken into a green­house where the temperature does not fall below 400 F., and when they come into bloom they can be taken into the house to provide attractive room decoration. The coolest room in the house is most suitable, and the plants should be carefully watered. Very wet or very dry soil conditions are unfavourable and the compost must therefore be kept uniformly moist.

Cissus

The most popular species of this genus is C. antarctica. This is a very vigorous climber, having deep green, undivided leaves about 3 inches in length and 2 inches wide at the bases. The edges of the leaves are wavy in outline with distinct points at wide intervals along the margin and the old leaves are stiff and tough in texture. The stems and leafstalks are reddish crimson (Fig. 35).

Owing to the tough texture of its leaves, and its attractive appearance, Cissus has become one of the most popular of house-plants. It does not require a high temperature, and, provided the plant is grown in a position which is free from frost and the atmosphere is not hot and dry, it will grow vigorously and provide a feature of lasting beauty.

John Innes Potting Compost No. 1 is ideal for this plant, but it will grow in any light, rich, fertile soil.

As it is evergreen, water is needed at all seasons of the year, but naturally less is required in winter when growth is not so active. It is advisable to allow the compost to become moderately dry before moistening it.

The leaves should be syringed or sponged occasionally to remove dirt, and during mild showery weather it is beneficial to stand the plant in the open air for a few hours. New plants are obtainable by taking 'cuttings'; young shoots should be used for the purpose. They should be 2-3 inches long, and are cut off just below a leaf and inserted in a well-drained pot of sandy soil. If the potted cuttings are set under a large glass jar, or in a closed propagator, they will quickly root and can then be potted up separately and grown on to form large specimens. Layering is also a method of propagation.

Clivia (Imantophyllum)

Clivia miniata, the Kaffir lily, can be thoroughly recommended as a house-plant, as it possesses all the essential qualities of such plants. It is easy to grow, is evergreen, and flowers annually, but does not suffer from insect pests and is quite healthy in the atmosphere of a dwelling-room, requiring very little attention

(Fig- 36).

It is a handsome plant with long strap-shaped leaves and bears large umbels of orange-yellow or scarlet funnel-shaped flowers in summer. A rich compost, such as John Innes Potting mixture No. 2, is suitable, or 2 parts of loam, 1 of leaf-mould and 1 of well-decayed manure may be used. Repotting is not necessary for many years, the plant being kept in a vigorous and flowering state during this time by watering with liquid fertiliser in the summer.

A sunny position is necessary for the production of perfect spikes of bloom. A high temperature is not needed, and the plant will come to no harm provided the temperature does not fall below 400 F. in winter.

Cocos plumosa (Arecastrum romanzoffianum)

Like the Kentia palm, this plant is used for house decoration; being of a vigorous habit, it grows to many feet in height and when large is popular for decorating large rooms or public halls.

It has a different habit from Kentia, and its leaves are in the form of long slender plumes which are produced in a compact cluster. As the leaves are very tough in texture they are not much affected by dry atmospheric conditions.

Fig. 36. Clivia (Imantophyllum) miniata (Kaffir lily)

The root development of this Cocos is very vigorous, and it requires constant attention with regard to watering, but at the same time overwatering must be avoided.

C. (Syagrus) weddeliana has the habit of C. plumosa, but it is small and is of a very dainty habit of growth. The leaves are slender and feathery and the plants do not grow more than 3-4 feet in height. This species is difficult to grow permanently in rooms and needs careful watering. Being native of the tropics, it needs a warm room; overwatering must be avoided, although the soil must not be allowed to remain dry for long periods

(Fig- 37).

Codiaeum (Croton)

Although species of Codiaeum are frequently used for house decoration, they cannot be grown to perfection in rooms, because they require a moist warm atmosphere. In the dry atmosphere of a living room, they lose their leaves rapidly and soon become 'leggy' (devoid of basal foliage leaves).

Where a warm greenhouse is available to grow the plants, they can be brought into the living room for short spells, but must not be subjected to the dry, hot atmosphere for long periods. Where this treatment can be given, the plants provide a brilliant display of tropical splendour. The leaves are of rich and varied colours including green, red and yellow; some are shaped like the common laurel leaves, whilst others are notched and twisted in spirals.

To keep the plants in rooms for the longest periods (and they last longer in rooms during the summer than in winter) they must be grown in a cool atmosphere where hot dry conditions can be avoided.

The best compost consists of equal parts of peat and loam, lightened with silver sand.

Propagation is by taking 'cuttings' in spring or summer, and these must be set in a warm glass-covered propagation case. The plants can also be increased by stem layering with polythene tissue (see propagation).

Fig. 39. Cyperus ahernifolius (Umbrella Plant)

Fig. 37. Cocos (Syagrus) weddeliana

Fig. 38. Cokus hlumei (Flame Nettle)

Coelogyne (see Orchids) Coleus (Flame Nettle)

The varieties of Coleus blumei are among the most brilliantly coloured of all foliage plants and are immensely popular for room decoration (Fig. 38).

During the summer months, the plants are ideal for furnishing dwelling rooms, but in winter they lose their leaves and con­sequently prove very disappointing to those who do not know their characteristics.

Their nettle-shaped leaves are so varied in colours, including red, yellow, pink, crimson and green and variegated, that it is not possible to give an adequate description of their beauty in the written word.

They are raised from 'cuttings' of shoots taken in early spring and set in a glass-covered bottom-heated propagator. When rooted, they are set in 3 J-inch pots and later, when well established, are repotted into 5-inch pots. To obtain bushy plants, the tips of the shoots are pinched out as soon as the plants are established in the small pots and again when established in the 5-inch pots, after which no more pinching is required.

The plants can be taken into the dwelling-room in early June, where they will provide a colourful display until October. After this, the leaves begin to fall and the plants must be returned to the greenhouse, where they must remain until spring, when propaga­tion can be begun again.

Plants can also be raised from seeds sown in a light compost. If a warm greenhouse is available, sowing should begin in February or March, but in a cold greenhouse or in a dwelling-room, this operation must be deferred until April. The seedlings are potted and treated in the same manner as the rooted 'cuttings'.

When the plants are growing freely, the compost must be kept uniformly moist. A very dry soil, or one which is perpetually sodden with water, will cause the leaves to drop, and a gas-laden or hot dry atmosphere will have the same effect.

Cordyline (see Dracaena) Cork Tree (Philodendron) Crassula (Rochea)

Of the large number of species of the genus, the most popular for room decoration is C.falcata. The fleshy leaves of this succulent are not affected by a dry atmosphere, and the plant is well suited to room conditions.

Crassula (Rochea) falcata is a robust plant with thick, grey leaves, 3 inches in length and nearly ½inch in thickness. They somewhat resemble flattened bananas in shape. If cultivated for several years, the plants will grow to 3-4 feet in height and pro­duce a very large flattish inflorescence of small scarlet flowers in summer.

Each of the leaves will produce a plant if it is pulled off and inserted in sandy soil in spring. Only ½inch of the base of the leaf should be inserted. Propagation may be done on the window-sill, a glass-covered case being unnecessary. The new shoot springs from the base of the leaf.

Cyclamen

In this genus, there are hardy and greenhouse kinds. The hardy species have small flowers in autumn or spring and are not suitable for growing in a room.

The forms of C. persicum, however, are of great decorative value as pot plants. They are sold in enormous quantities at Christmas time when they are packed with blossoms. They prove very disappointing to most people because they sicken and die in the atmosphere of rooms which are usually hot and dry at that time of the year. When purchased, they should be set in a cool atmosphere and the compost kept moist.

When the flowers fade and the leaves turn yellow, the plants must be set out in the open air. The compost should be kept dry until growth begins in July, when the corms should be set into well-drained pots of a rich compost. In October, the plants must be taken into a well-lighted, but cool, room where the blossoms will open in spring.

When repotting, a compost of 7 parts of loam, 3 of peat and 2 of silver sand should be used and when the plants are growing freely in summer they must be watered once a week with a complete fertiliser.

Cymbidium (see Orchids)

Cyperus alternifolius (Umbrella Plant)

Owing to the peculiar formation of its leaves, this plant is known as the umbrella plant (Fig. 39). A cluster of stems spring from the base of the plant and these are surmounted by a large umbrella of narrow green leaves. The flowers are inconspicuous and of no decorative value.

The plant is evergreen and will flourish in a normal room temperature. Any ordinary garden soil is suitable as a compost and the plants may be kept in a saucer of water because they are aquatic in nature.

Young plants can be obtained by detaching the clusters of leaves, shortening them to 1 inch in length, and pushing the 'cuttings' into the soil, so that the bases of most of the leaves are buried. New plants are developed at the bases of the leaves.

Cypripedium (see Orchids) Cyrtomiumfalcatum (Holly Fern)

Many people call this the holly fern because the fronds arc thick, fleshy and deep green and somewhat resemble those of the holly tree. It grows in a rosette close to the soil and has fronds up to 2 feet in length which are divided into separate leaflets (pinnae).

This fern is extremely robust and can be grown in any position in the house where the temperature does not fall below freezing point. An ordinary compost is suitable and this should be kept moist at all times, although short periods of soil dryness will not seriously affect the plant.

Cytisus raccmosus

This member of the pea family (Leguminosae), often listed as Cytisus fragrans or Genista fragrans, makes a brilliant display in a cool greenhouse in spring. It is grown as a dwarf bush, about 12 inches in height and bears a large number of long spikes of golden yellow fragrant blossoms (Fig. 40).

Plants in full bloom can be purchased in spring. They should be set in a cool room and the soil kept in a moist condition, whilst they are in flower.

After flowering, the side-shoots should be shortened to about 3 inches to maintain a bushy habit. When the new shoots are \ inch long the plants must be set in pots one size larger. At the end of May the plants may be placed out of doors in a sunny position, to ripen the wood and form new flower buds.

On the approach of frost, the plants must be taken into a -well lighted cool room. They will not flourish in shade or in a hot dry atmosphere and are almost hardy. The soil must be kept moderately moist for dryness at the roots causes the leaves to fall.

New plants are obtained from young shoots when they are \\ inches long in summer. These shoots are inserted in well-drained pots of sandy soil; the pots of' cuttings' are placed in a glass-covered box until the young plants arc large enough to be potted separately.

Date Palm (see Phoenix) Davallia (Hare's-Foot Fern)

Owing to their brown, scaly, creeping stems, these plants are popularly known as squirrel's-foot or hare's-foot ferns.

Fig. 40. Cytisus racemosus

They have finely divided fronds which arise on slender stalks, straight up from the rhizomes (creeping stems). The fronds vary in length from 12 inches to 2 feet and are of elegant appearance. These ferns are popular room-plants because they will flourish in a cool semi-shaded position, but a gas-laden or hot dry atmosphere must be avoided.

The best compost consists of 2 parts of loam and i of leaf-mould.

The two principal species are D. elegans (denticulata), which has fronds 18 inches to 2 feet tall, and D. canariensis (hare's-foot fern). Another species, D. bullata, has slender rhizomes which are often trained in the shape of animals to provide attractive ornaments which are hung on supports in a room or greenhouse. The plants may be kept growing and the foliage fresh and green by dipping the rhizomes in water occasionally.

Dieffenbachia (Dumb Cane)

This tropical plant which belongs to the arum family (Araceae) is sometimes offered for sale in florists' shops; but it is difficult to keep healthy during the winter because it requires a moist warm atmosphere.

It forms a thick upright cane-like stem with a tuft of large yellow spotted leaves like those of the arum lily at the apex.

The plants require a rich compost of equal parts of loam and leaf-mould. They must be protected from cold draughts and a dry atmosphere. During the summer months the compost must be maintained in a moist condition, but throughout the winter watering should be done only when the compost becomes quite dry.

Propagation is by means of 'cuttings' inserted in pots of sandy soil set in a warm glass-covered propagator in spring.

Dracaena

In this genus and the related genus Cordyline there are several species with attractive coloured leaves, but few of these plants are hardy enough to be used as permanent occupants of dwelling-rooms. Dracaena fragrans, a popular kind, has stout woody stems, clothed with long, rather narrow, pendent leaves, the bases of which clasp the stems. The bottom leaves die and drop off after a few years, leaving conspicuous leaf scars.

Young plants are grown on single upright stems and unless they are cut back, the plants remain unbranched. D. fragrans is grown for the beauty of its foliage. It produces a slender flower spike of small, sweet-scented flowers, but these arc not formed on a young plant.

D. fragrans and C. indivisa are easily grown in a cool greenhouse and flourish in a compost of loam and leaf-mould, lightened with a little silver sand. Because the plants are evergreen, the compost must not be allowed to remain dry for long periods. Dryness at the roots is the cause of leaf dropping.

Propagation is by ringing (see Chapter 2) and by inserting the shoots in pots of light soil, set in a warm propagator, in spring or summer.

After a number of years, short rhizomes are sometimes to be found at the base of the plants, and these can be taken off and potted up to form new stock.

D. fragrans var. Victoria is one of the most beautiful of all varieties of Dracaena. This form has broad pendent leaves which are striped with green and yellow. It is vigorous and will reach several feet in height in a few years, but is suitable only for a warm greenhouse, or as a temporary occupant of a living room in summer (Fig. 41).

Dracaena gradually loses its lower leaves and the plants become leggy and unsightly. When they reach this stage the top shoots should be inserted as 'cuttings'. The leafless stems can then be cut into portions about 2 inches in length and used as a means of propagation. If laid on damp moss or fibre in a warm frame they quickly form roots and new shoots and they can then be potted separately into small pots.

Epiphyllum (Phyllocactus) The flowers of this genus are among the most conspicuous and the most decorative of all the cactus family. These cacti haveflattened or angled almost spineless stems which re­semble leaves and grow up to 2-4 feet in length; they bear enormous flowers of brilliant colourings in sum­mer.(The name Epiphyllum was formerly given also to the plant which is now known as Schlumbergera, p. 127).

The flowers of Epiphyl-lum are trumpet-shaped, several inches in diameter, with long protruding stamens and pistils, and there are many hybrids in pink, red and white, some having a metallic lustre (Fig. 42).

Fig. 42. Epiphyllum achermannii (formerly called Phyllocactus)

These cacti need a sunny room and plenty of fresh air.

The best compost consists of 2 parts of loam and \ a part of leaf-mould or peat with a generous sprinkling of coarse silver sand and crushed brick.

Fig. 4.1. Dracaena fragmns var. Victoria

During the spring and sum­mer, the compost must be kept moist and the leaf-like stems exposed to the maxi­mum amount of sunlight. Fig. 43. Erica gracilis After the new growth has been formed, the plants may be placed out of doors for the remainder of the summer (if a space is available) in order to ripen the stems for flower production. If the plants arc set out of doors, they must be brought inside in October. Less watering will be needed in winter, but when growth commences in spring normal watering will be necessary. Propagation is by 'cuttings' of portions of the stems, which should be cut off in 2-3 inch lengths and inserted in pure sand in early summer. A close moist atmosphere is not necessary, and the pots of'cuttings' may be set on a window-sill or greenhouse shelf. A little bottom heat will, however, speed root formation.

There are several species in cultivation and these have been crossed to produce many attractive hybrids. E. ackermannii, of which there are many hybrids, is the most well known species. An interesting night-flowering species to grow in a well-lighted window is E. oxypetalum. Its flowers are very fragrant but fade quickly.

Erica (Heather)

The heathers most popular for room decoration are Erica gracilis (Fig. 43), and E. g. alba, both of which have needle-shaped leaves on stout woody stems and bear a profusion of small bell-shaped blossoms. Another species which can sometimes be ob­tained from florists' shops is E. hyemalis which has soft green leaves and tubular pink-tipped flowers. Both of these species of Erica are readily obtainable from florists at Christmas time, when they are in full bloom and very attractive. They are almost hardy and as they require full sunlight and plenty of fresh air they cannot be grown entirely in the home. If a cool sunny greenhouse with a minimum temperature of 400 F. is available they can be set in this as soon as the flowers start to fade. The stems should be cut back to about half their length and syringed to induce new shoots to form.

About the middle of May, the plants must be placed out of doors and the pots plunged up to their rims in ashes. The shoots will then become ripened for flower production and in October the plants must be taken into the cool greenhouse to flower eventually in early spring. By forcing in heat, flowers may be obtained at Christmas time.

New plants are raised by taking 'cuttings' of side shoots, about 1 inch in length, and these are inserted in pots of sandy peat to become rooted and eventually grown on to flower.

Eucalyptus globulus (Blue Gum)

The well-known eucalyptus oil is obtained from the leaves of this plant. It is grown for its large glaucous green leaves and is easily raised from seeds sown in a pot of sandy soil in a warm greenhouse in spring.

This is a very vigorous growing species and plants several feet in height are obtained from seeds in 2 or 3 years. The plants quickly become pot-bound and require enormous quantities of water. Eucalyptus is not exacting with regard to soil and will flourish in any ordinary potting mixture but it is most intolerant of soil dryness and the compost must never be allowed to remain dry for any length of time. Where a tall-growing ornamental-leaved plant is needed this is an ideal subject, but it must not be exposed to a hot dry atmosphere nor subjected to cold draughts.

Eulalia (see Miscanthus) Euphorbia pulcherrima (Poinsettia)

The scarlet bracts (terminal leaves) of the plant make it most conspicuous in winter, but it is a difficult plant for beginners to grow, and quickly loses its foliage in rooms. Even when grown in the greenhouse it is liable to lose its lower leaves. Plants can be purchased in bloom in florists' shops and the best way to keep them from being defoliated quickly is to set them in a cool room and maintain the soil in a moist but not saturated condition. The plants cannot withstand a dry or a gas-laden atmosphere (Fig. 44).

If a greenhouse is available, 'cuttings' of side shoots can be taken in early summer and inserted in pots of sandy soil set in a glass-covered propagator.

The rooted 'cuttings' are set separately into small pots. They do not need 'stopping'. From the 3-inch pots they are transferred later to 5-inch pots in which they produce their blooms. From May to October they must be placed in a cold frame but taken into a warm greenhouse in October.

E. splendens (crown of thorns) grows to several feet in height and the long slender prickly branches must be supported by tying them to wires. E. splendens is a semi-succulent plant; in addition to having tough succulent cactus-like stems, it develops a small number of small oval bright-green leaves. Its chief attraction is, however, in its salmon pink flowers (bracts) which are formed throughout the greater part of the year (Fig. 45).

This useful room-plant flourishes in a well-drained compost of loam and sand with the addition of some broken pot crocks.

Eurya japonica (E. latifolia variegata)

This plant is cultivated for the beauty of its variegated foliage. It is a dwarf evergreen shrub with oval leaves about 2 inches in length. They are deep green with cream coloured margins and the shoots are tipped with crimson.

As it is almost hardy and can be retained in a dwarf form by pruning, it is an ideal subject for growing in the home.

Fig. 44. Euphorbia pulcherrima (Poinsettia)

House Plants: their Cultivation and Propagation           Modern Indoor Gardening    Eurya is easy to grow and can be potted in any good light garden soil. The pot must, however, be well drained or the edges of the leaveswill turn crimson. Propagation is effected by taking 'cuttings' of firm well-ripened shoots in September. They are inserted in well-drained pots of sandy soil set in a glass-covered box. Bottom heat is not necessary. False Castor Oil (see Fatsia) Fatshedera lizei Fig. 45. Euphorbia splendens An interesting house-plant, of comparatively recent intro­duction, is the result of a cross between Fatsia japonica (erro­neously called the castor oil plant)  and a species of ivy       (Hcdera hihernica).

It is evergreen with ivy-like leaves of a tough texture, which are ornamented with cream-coloured margins (Fig. 46). The shoots are usually trained to form a pyramid.

Being almost hardy, it is an ideal room-plant and if its leaves are sponged occasionally, their beauty is greatly enhanced. Any light garden soil is suitable for potting or 2 parts of loam and 1 of granulated peat may be used. 'Cuttings' root readily when set in well-drained pots of sandy soil in early summer.

Fatsiajaponica (Aralia sieboldii) (False Castor Oil Plant)

Fig. 46. Fatshedera lizei

Because the foliage of this plant closely resembles that of Ricinus, it is commonly known as the false castor oil plant. The leaves, however, are much larger than those of Ricinus and they are deep green, very tough in texture and less smooth. The plants have hard woody stems. As they can be grown in unheated rooms, and because they last for many years, they are popular room-plants. Also they are not exacting in their requirements and can be grown in any light garden soil. F. japonica can be propagated from seeds sown in a warm green­house in spring. Plants which lose their lower leaves can be propagated by ring­ing (p. 14).

Ficus

One member of this genus which is known to most people is the india rubber plant  [ricus elastica).

This has become very popular as a room-plant during recent years. Its stout woody stems and large evergreen glossy leaves make it one of the most conspicuous and attractive of room-plants. Since it is almost hardy and is able to withstand a dry atmosphere, it is ideal for decorating the home.

In its native clime, F. elastica develops into a large tree, and when grown in a room it eventually becomes too tall for the space available. But it can, however, be cut back to make it develop into a bushy specimen. When a stem is cut, a quantity of latex oozes out but the flow can quickly be stopped by covering the wound with soil or sand. If allowed to flow, this latex will harden into a rubbery substance.

The rubber plant is of easy culture. The soil must be kept moist because lack of moisture results in falling leaves.

The plants may be increased by inserting 'cuttings' of side shoots in a warm propagator or the ringing process may be adopted (sec p. 14). A variety of F. elastica which is now very popular is F. elastica decora (Fig. 47) which has broader leaves than the type. Other species grown are F. lyrata (pandurata) which has waisted leaves and F. pumila (repens), a small-leaved kind with creeping woody stems, which, like the common ivy (Hedera helix), will cling to a wall by means of its adventitious roots.

Fittonia

Although this is often sold as a house-plant, it is difficult to grow under room conditions, and must, therefore, be regarded as a temporary occupant of rooms. Successful results can often be obtained by growing the plant under a bell-jar or glass-covered case where a moist warm atmosphere can be maintained.

The two popular species are F. argyroneura, which has green leaves with white veins, and F. verschaffeltii, which has dark green leaves with deep red veins.

Fittonia requires plenty of humus in the soil and equal parts of loam, peat and sand form a good compost. Pieces of shoot inserted in sandy compost, under a bell-jar, root readily in summer.

Flame Nettle (see Coleus)

Francoa ramosa (Bridal Wreath)

This is an old-fashioned, favourite room-plant which is useful for furnishing a sunny window. It forms a rosette of leaves which are similar to those of the dandelion (Taraxacum) in size and shape, but are of a coarser texture, lighter in colour, and have very thick midribs (Fig. 48). From the centre of the rosette of leaves, branching flower stems arise in sum­mer. They consist of spikes of small, white, star-shaped blooms. There is also a form with reddish-purple flowers, F. appendiculata, and a pink form, F. sonchifolia. Fully grown plants bear numerous spikes of blooms and form very attractive floral features. As these plants are almost hardy and have tough foliage, they are admirably adapted for room culture. A suitable potting mixture consists of 6 parts of loam, 2 parts of leaf-mould or peat and 1 part of silver sand. Repotting is done in spring. The plants are removed from the pots, a little of the old compost is removed from around the 'ball' and the plants are set in slightly larger pots.

Fig. 47. Left, Ficus elastka

Fig. 48. Left, Francoa ramosa (Bridal Wreath)

Francoa is best suited by a cool, well-illuminated position in the room. In warm sheltered districts it can be grown entirely out of doors. When the plants are well developed they form several crowns of side shoots; these can be cut off, inserted in pots of sandy soil, and placed under a glass-covered box, or other form of propagator, to form roots. Seeds can also be obtained and sown in spring in a pot of light sifted soil.

Freesia

The old-fashioned Freesia refracta and its varieties, which pro­duced flowers of delicious fragrance and were grown as pot plants in a warm greenhouse, were not easy to grow in rooms. The corms were potted in August, set in a cool frame until October, and then brought into the greenhouse where they produced their blooms in winter and early spring. Although they could be taken into the living rooms when in bloom, they could not be raised there because of the lack of light, and they became spindly and most unsatisfactory.

A new race has, however, been obtained by hybridization and the Paradise varieties are now available. These flower during the summer months and no artificial heat is required, for they can be grown and brought into flower in a cold frame or planted straight into the open ground.

The corms are planted or potted during April. Any good light garden soil is suitable for their cultivation. Five or six corms are set in a 5-inch pot with their tips showing just above the surface of the compost.

The potted corms are set in a semi-shaded position in the garden and when the flowers are in bloom may be brought into the house where their delicious fragrance can be fully appreciated.

There are numerous varieties, in many shades of colour, and those which are planted out of doors can provide cut flowers for decorating vases (Fig. 49).

Fuchsia (Lady's Eardrops)

This old-fashioned favourite can be obtained in a large number of varieties with flowers of many shades of red, purple and pink. It is a most attractive window plant but will not flower freely in shade or in a hot, dry atmosphere (Fig. 50).

Plants may be purchased in flower in early summer; the soil must be kept moist or bud dropping will result.

After flowering, watering must be gradually reduced until the leaves turn yellow and fall; the soil can then be kept almost dry until new growth begins in spring. At this time the plants should be repotted. For this purpose some of the old compost must be pricked away with a pointed stick and the plants set in slightly larger pots. To retain the bushy shape of the plant the branches should be shortened by about one third as soon as new growth commences in spring. The best potting compost is the John Innes Potting Compost No. 2.

Fig. 49. Freesia refracta

When an increased stock of plants is required, young shoots 1J inches in length may be taken off and inserted around the edges of small, well-drained pots filled with sandy compost. A bottom-heated propagator is needed if 'cuttings' are taken in early spring, but those taken in summer will root without its aid.

Genista (see Cytisus) Geranium [sec Pelargonium) Gloxinia [Sinningia)

Although the name of this popular greenhouse plant is botanically Sinningia it is more frequently called by the name Gloxinia.

Fig. 49. Freesia refract^

Being native of Brazil, it is not easy to grow as a house-plant. However, it is sometimes obtained and taken into dwelling houses because of the great beauty of its blooms.

The leaves, which are fleshy and 3-4 inches across, have very prominent veins and are formed in a cluster, which arises straight from the top of the corms. The flowers arise in a similar manner. They are produced on stout fleshy stalks, which carry the blooms well above the leaves. These flowers are trumpet-shaped, and 2-3 inches across. There are numerous hybrids, which are richly coloured, in shades of crimson, red, pink or white.

To keep the plants in the home, it is essential that a cool room should be selected. The plants must be shaded from strong sunlight, but not kept in dense shade. Whilst they are growing, the compost must be kept moist, but not in a perpetual state of saturation.

At the end of the summer, growth slows down, and less and less water is needed until the compost is dried off completely; the plants are then stored in a cool place for the winter.

When grown in rooms, it is advisable to keep the plants dormant as long as possible and to start them into growth in April, when they should be repotted into a fertile mixture, such as John Innes Potting Compost No. 1. They are watered very carefully at first but, when in full growth, the compost must not be allowed to remain dry for more than a few hours at a time.

Propagation is by leaf'cuttings' (p. 16).

Grevillea robusta (Silk-bark Oak)

This shrubby species, which has finely cut fern-like foliage, is often disappointing as a house-plant because it drops its leaves very easily in artificially heated rooms (Fig. 51), and is adversely affected by cold draughts. John Inncs Potting Compost No. 1 is suitable for this shrub ; repotting is necessary as soon as the plants become pot-bound.

Fig. 50. Fuchsia (Lady's Eardrops)

Fig. 51. Grevilka rohusta (Silk-bark Oak)

Plants about 12 inches high are obtainable from florists' shops; to keep them in a fresh condition they must be grown in a cool atmosphere. They will not withstand dryness of the air and gas fumes are fatal.

This species cannot be regarded as a permanent occupant of the dwelling-room and should be re­placed with young plants occasionally.

Those having a warm greenhouse can raise seedlings by sowing seeds in a pot of sandy soil in spring.

Hare's-Foot Fern (see Davallia) Hearts Entwined (see Ceropegia) Heather (sec Erica) Hedera helix (Ivy)

Several species of ivy are excellent for house-plants, because they are hardy and their glossy green leaves are attractive at all seasons of the year. They are not adversely affected by a dry atmosphere and flourish in any light garden soil.

The principal forms used for this purpose are H. canariensis (Fig. 52) with green and creamy-white leaves, H. h. Chicago with attractive green leaves (Fig. 53) and H. h. sagittaefolia with small deeply lobed green leaves.

These are all vigorous climbers and when grown in the dwelling-rooms may be trained to sticks or specially constructed wire frames. As they are evergreen they need to be watered during all seasons of the year but much less watering is needed during the winter. To keep their foliage in a fresh, attractive condition, and to maintain them in vigorous health, the leaves must be sponged at frequent inter­vals.

Fig. 52. Hedera canariensis

Fig. 53. Hedera helix Chicago

New plants are easily obtained by taking 'cuttings' during the spring and sum­mer. They are inserted in a well-drained pot of light soil and set in a glass-covered box. Layering is also an easy method of obtaining new plants. For this purpose a pot of sandy soil is placed near the parent plant, and the shoot is pegged to the soil. It quickly forms roots, and can soon be detached and potted into a separate pot.

Helxine soleirolii (Mind-Your-Own-Business)

This moss-like plant has several popular names, such as mind-your-own-business, baby's tears and mustard and cress plant. It has slender creeping stems clothed with small pale green leaves and, being of vigorous growth, quickly covers the pot with verdant foliage.

It can be grown in a sunny window where it makes a compact mat, or in a shady position where the slender stems grow more rapidly but are less hardy.

Any ordinary garden soil serves as a compost and the plant is capable of withstanding extremes of dryness or moisture.

Propagation is effected by detaching small pieces and trans­planting them to other pots of soil. If covered with a jam jar they become established very quickly.

Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)

There is some confusion about the names of these plants. Hippeastrum is the botanical name of the plants which are not hardy and must therefore be grown where the winter temperature does not fall below 45o F. Amaryllis is the botanical name for the hardy plant, grown entirely out of doors, which is known as the belladonna lily. The confusion arises because the Hippeastrum is commonly called the Amaryllis, but in these notes the correct botanical name of Hippeastrum will be used.

Hippeastrum has a large bulb covered with brown 'papery' skin. It produces funnel-shaped six-petalled blooms, 6 inches or more across. There are many varieties, in shades of pink or red, and two or more blooms are borne at the tips of very stout, hollow stalks in early spring or summer. The blooms are the largest and most strikingly coloured of all indoor bulbs.

The bulbs should be potted in a mixture of 6 parts of fibrous loam, 2 of peat or leaf-mould, ½part of silver sand, and a little well-decayed horse or cow manure. John Innes Potting Compost No. 2 may also be used.

Careful watering is needed at first, but when the plants are well rooted the compost must be kept moist and watered occasionally with a complete fertiliser.

After the flowers fade, watering and feeding should be con­tinued until growth has finished, when the plants must be placed in a sunny position to ripen the bulbs.

Finally, the plants should be stored in a cool place and given no more water until growth begins in spring.

Hippeastrum has been grown for many years as a greenhouse subject, but those who have had experience with house-plants should have very little difficulty in treating it as a room-plant in a sunny well-lighted window.

Howea (Kentia)

This palm is extensively used for decorating rooms at social functions where it imparts a tropical appearance. Small plants are in great demand for room or table decoration and large specimens, up to 15 feet in height, are widely used in large halls.

The large pinnately divided leaves are borne on long smooth stalks and arise from a central crown.

For home decoration these palms are ideal because they arc not much affected by a dry warm atmosphere, although they do best where the air is cool and free from gas fumes.

The best compost consists of 2 parts of loam, 1 of peat or leaf-mould with a little sand and some dried horse or cow manure, or a general fertiliser.

To keep the plants in good health the leaves must be regularly sponged and the compost must be maintained in a moist condition. Howea forsteriana is the more popular species (Fig. 54); but H. belmoreana, which is very similar in appearance, is more com­pact in growth and with the leaf segments ascend­ing.

Hoy a carnosa (Wax Flower)

Fig. 54. Attractive House-Plants

Left to right, Asparagus sprengeri, Howea forsteriana, Hydrangea macrophylla

Fig. 55. Hoya carnosa (Wax Flower)

In a sunny well-lighted room this charming climber produces large clusters of glistening pink, star-shaped, wax-like flowers in great abundance in summer (Fig. 55). Its slender stems are clothed with evergreen leathery leaves which are admirably suited to a dry atmosphere.

This plant flowers best when exposed to full sunlight and when the roots are sufficiently restricted in a small pot to prevent it from making soft growth.

The best compost consists of equal parts of loam and sand with finely broken flowerpot crocks mixed in it. Additional plants are obtainable by laying the shoot in a pot of sandy soil, placed near the parent plant.

Hydrangea tnacrophylla

This free-flowering shrub which is hardy in the warmest parts of the British Isles is known to most people. When grown entirely out of doors it forms a widespread shrub, up to 6 feet in height and bears immense trusses of pink, red or white flowers in summer. Plants with blue flowers are to be seen when they are growing in soils containing a sufficient amount of iron.

Fig. 56. Hydrangea tnacrophylla

These attractive plants are very popular for growing in pots, for room decoration in spring (Fig. 56). Plants are obtainable from florists when the flowers are fully developed. When they are received the plants should be set in a cool, frost­proof room and should receive plenty of water, otherwise they lose their leaves very quickly.

When correctly treated the flowers remain fresh for many weeks, but as soon as they commence to fade, the plants must be taken into a cool green­house. They cannot be grown entirely in rooms. When the flowers fade, the shoots which have borne the blooms must be cut out, leaving the new shoots to flower in the following year.

In order to have bushy plants with abundance of blooms, the plants must be set in slightly larger pots as soon as new growth commences in spring. The best compost consists of 3 parts of turfy loam and 1 of granulated peat, with a small amount of silver sand added.

After potting, set the plants in a shady cool position in the greenhouse and syringe the foliage with clear water to stimulate vigorous growth. When the warm weather arrives, in early June, stand the potted plants out of doors in a semi-shaded position, where they may remain until November. They must then be taken into a frost-proof, well-lighted greenhouse, where they will expand their bloom and provide a brilliant display.

To obtain new plants, 'cuttings' should be taken in July, using the shoots which have not flowered but have plump terminal buds. These shoots should be 4-5 inches in length. The lower leaves must be cut off and the 'cuttings' inserted in sandy soil.

5-inch pots, provided with plenty of drainage crocks, are needed.

Make the compost firm. The prepared 'cuttings' should then be inserted about 2 inches apart, setting them around the edges of the pot. After watering in the 'cuttings', place them in a cold frame, which should be closed to maintain a moist atmosphere until sufficient roots have formed. They should then be potted separ­ately into 3½-inch pots and when well rooted in these, transferred to 5-inch pots.

At the end of September, when the night temperature falls to 45o F., take the plants into the warm greenhouse where they will open their flowers during early spring.

To obtain blue flowers the plants must be potted in a compost containing a blueing powder, or watered with a blueing powder dissolved in water. The powder must be used at the strength recommended by the makers. A few of the varieties to grow for this purpose are Blue Princess, Triumph and Hamburg Blue.

Impatiens (Busy Lizzie)

The name Impatiens was given to this genus of plants because the seed pods explode vigorously when lightly touched. The principal species used for room decoration is I. sultani (ivalleriana) (sometimes called Busy Lizzie) (Figs. 57 and 58).

This plant grows to about 12 inches in height, has smooth, shiny, semi-transparent stems, clothed with oval, pale green leaves about 1 inch across. During the summer it is most attractive with its masses of flowers. There are many varieties in different shades of pink. The blooms are roundish, about 1 inch in diameter and have a long, slender spur formed by one of the petals. Impatiens holstii is similar to I. sultani but has a wider range of colours, including lilac, ruby, salmon and pink.

Propagation is by sowing seeds in a light sandy compost, in spring; a temperature of about 6o° F. is needed for germination. The seeds are sown in a 5-inch pot which is covered with a pane of glass until germination takes place. As soon as the seedlings are 1-1½ inches high, they are set separately into 3-inch pots; later and has slim but rigid stems "which branch out at the top where large spreading inflorescences are formed. These flowering stems branch out into many sections like the ribs of an umbrella, bearing small scarlet flowers in large clusters.

Fig. 57. Impatiens sultani (Busy Lizzie)

Fig. 61. A kitchen window made attractive with flowering and foliage plants

Left to right: Hedera canariensis, Begonia haagetma, Hedera helix sagittaefolia

The plants must have a well-lighted position near a window and need a compost of 2 parts of loam, 1 part of peat and \ part of silver sand.

They arc increased by 'cuttings' of young shoots set in well-drained pots of sandy soil in late summer. No propagating case is required.

Kleinia (Senecio) articulate

Owing to its round, slim, succulent stems, this plant is often referred to as the Candle plant (Fig. 60).

When growing in fertile soil, it forms small green leaves, but if deprived of soil moisture for a long period, it loses them. How­ever, as the stems contain a store of moisture, this plant can survive for a long period without water and is classed as a succulent. Mature specimens produce spikes of small, daisy-like, yellow flowers which are very attractive. It is not demanding with regard to soil and, owing to its succulent nature, can be cultivated in a small pot.

The Candle plant is suitable for a sunny window and thrives in a minimumtemperature of 45o F.

Propagation is by shoot "cuttings' which root easily in a pot of sandy soil set on the window-sill in spring or summer.

Lachenalia (Cape Cowslip)

This popular greenhouse plant is suitable for growing in rooms which are well-lighted and are not allowed to become overheated in winter. It flowers during the early spring months and is grown from bulbs. The bulbs, which are about the size of those of our native bluebell, have wide strap-shaped leaves, which in some species have large brown­ish spots. Each bulb sends up a spike of bloom about 6 inches in height and similar in shape and size to the bluebell. There are many varieties but the most popular is L. aloides nelsonii which has yellow flowers (Fig. 62). Another well-known form is L. aloides (tricolor) with scarlet and citron flowers.

Fig. 62. Lachenalia aloides var. nelsonii

The bulbs are potted in August and about seven bulbs are set in a 5-inch pot. The tips of the bulbs should not be covered, and a rich compost   such   as John Innes Potting Compost No. 2 should be used. Fig. 63. Maranta leuconeura var. kerchoveana If a cold frame is available, the potted bulbs may be placed in this, where they may remain until November. Those who do not have a cold frame may set the pots on a sunny window- sill. During the growing period, the soil must be kept moist and when flower spikes are forming, occasional waterings with liquid manure are beneficial. After flowering, the soil must be gradually dried off and the bulbs ripened and rested until potting time in August.

Ladder Fern (see Nephrolepis) Liriopejaburcm (see Ophiopogon) Maidenhair Fern (see Adiantum) Maranta (Arrowroot Plant)

The common name refers to the species M. arundinacea, the swollen rhizomes of which produce arrowroot, a substance which forms an easily digested food. This species has no decorative value.

Some of the varieties, however, have very attractively marked foliage, but because the plants are native of tropical countries, where the air is moist and warm, they are not easy to grow in rooms. Nevertheless they are being sold as house-plants and are eagerly bought and used for room decoration.

The plants form tufts of foliage close to the soil. One of the most popular kinds is M. leuconeura var. kerchoveana, which has large   oval   green leaves with conspicuous chocolate spots   (Fig.   63).   Another form,  M leuconeura  var. massangeana, has leaves of olive green with   whitish veins. M. bicolor has dark green leaves, blotched with pale   green   between   the midrib and the margin. Maranta   plants   require a     semi-shaded     position where the atmosphere can be kept fairly  moist  and warm.    They    will not flourish in hot dry condi­tions. A compost of equal parts of fibrous loam and peat is needed, and it must be main­tained in a moist state, al­though much less watering is required in winter.

When grown in rooms these plants do best when kept under a glass case. Mind-Your-Own-Business (see Helxine) Miscanthus sinensis var. varkgatus (Zebra Grass) Fig. 65. Nephrokpis exaltata todeoides (Crested Ladder Fern) This graceful grass, some­times called Eulalia japonica, has narrow, green and white variegated leaves about \ inch across and 24 inches long. It  forms a pyramid of foliage and is therefore valuable for mixing with groups of flowering plants or as a specimen pot plant.

Fig. 64' Monstera Mciosa (Shingle Plant)

A native of China, it is almost hardy and will flourish in the coolest of dwelling-rooms. It is moisture-loving and the pots can be set in a saucer of water. Any ordinary light soil is suitable and new plants are obtained by division.

Monstera deliciosa (Shingle Plant)

Although this is found growing wild in tropical America, it is quite suitable as a permanent room-plant. It is easily recognised because of its immense, deep-green, shiny leaves which, when the plants are growing freely, are perforated with large holes. In a dense jungle these perforations allow light to reach the lower parts of the plant. Another characteristic of this plant is the pro­duction of long aerial roots over the whole length of the stem and these grow downwards ultimately to reach the ground (Fig. 64).

Although it is primarily a foliage plant, its flowering spikes are very conspicuous. They have thick creamy white spathes with a central column (spadix) and are shaped like the old-fashioned carriage lamps.

Monstera is a rapid grower, and if planted out in a bed of soil will quickly reach the roof of a tall conservatory, but when it becomes too large the top may be cut off" and planted in a smaller pot.

As a pot plant, it does not grow so rapidly as in a bed of compost because less plant food is available, but it requires frequent watering or the leaves will turn yellow. Owing to its vigorous growth, a rich compost of loam and leaf-mould, en­riched with a little well-decayed manure or some complete fertiliser, is necessary.

Fig. 66. Nerine sarniensis (Guernsey Lily)

Mother of Thousands (sec Saxifraga stolonifera) Nephrolepis (Ladder Fern)

Because of the structure of its fronds, the popular name of this plant is the ladder fern. The pinnae (leaflets) are borne horizontally on either side of a midrib and resemble the steps of a ladder. When well grown, it forms a large clump with numerous pendent fronds up to 3 feet in length (Fig. 65).

It is of reasonable hardiness and forms a delightful subject for room decoration, especially as it will grow in a shady position. Given a cool atmosphere, freedom from draughts and frosty air, this plant may serve as a lasting feature for room decoration.

For potting, well-drained receptacles are necessary; a fertile compost of turfy loam and leaf-mould in equal parts provides a sustaining medium in which to grow the fern. Propagation is by division.

Nerine (Guernsey Lily)

Although this is commonly called the Guernsey lily, it belongs to the Amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae) (Fig. 66).

The name Guernsey lily has been given it because the bulbs were obtained from a ship which was wrecked on Guernsey and were thus introduced into this country. The bulbs, which are large and roundish, are covered with a grey felt-like skin. The leaves are long, narrow and glaucous green and from the tips of the bulbs slender umbels of 6-petalled flowers are developed.

The bulbs are set in well-drained pots and are only half buried. A compost of 2 parts of loam, 1 of leaf-mould and \ part of silver sand is used.

These South African bulb plants must be grown ina sunny window. They will not flower in a shady position.

Repotting is not needed annually and the plants can remain in the same pots for many years because a pot-bound condition is necessary for flower production. When flowering is over, the compost is gradually dried off and the pots are set in a position where the bulbs can be baked by the sunlight. House Plants: their Cultivation and Propagation           Modern Indoor Gardening   The chief species obtain­able from nurserymen is N. sarniensis (true Guernsey lily) which produces glistening, pink flowers in late summer. There are also species with scarlet blooms as well as white kinds. Nerium oleander (Rose-Bay)

Commonly known as the oleander, this plant forms a shrub up to 10 feet in height and bears very attractive flowers in sum­mer. The species has pink flowers but there are red,   Fig- 67- Nerium oleander cream and white varieties as well as double forms          (Fig. 67). Nerium oleaner

The plants, owing to their vigorous habit, are suitable only for positions where plenty of space is available, but they are almost hardy and can be cultivated in unheated rooms or conservatories.

Whilst in bloom, the oleander is most attractive, but its beauty is perennial because it is clothed with lanceolate deep green leaves which are ornamental at all seasons of the year.

Young plants are obtained by inserting shoots in a pot of light soil, set in a glass-covered box or propagating case, in summer. Shoots can also be rooted in ajar of water.

The young plants are set in 3½-inch pots and eventually into 10- to 12-inch pots, after growing for several years. Good light garden soil is suitable for potting or a mixture of loam and peat or leaf-mould may be used.

The oleander is moisture loving and the compost must not be allowed to become dry, except during the winter when less water is required.

During the summer months, this plant may be set out of doors. It should be placed on a tile or slate to prevent the roots from growing downwards into the ground.

Norfolk Island Pine (see Araucaria)

Ophiopogon jaburan var. varlegatus (Liriope jaburan)

This plant is grown for the beauty of its narrow, strap-shaped, green and pale cream leaves which form a rosette close to the soil. From the centre of the foliage, slender spikes of bluish flowers appear in summer (Fig. 68).

A very suitable plant for a cool room, it nourishes in a rich compost such as John Innes Potting Compost No. i. Propagation is by division in spring, when the plants can be knocked out of their pots, divided into separate pieces with a knife, and set in separate small pots.

Oplismenus hirtellus (burmanni) variegates

This dainty grass, sometimes called Panicum variegatum, is ex tensively used for house decoration. It has very slender procumbent stems, which are furnished "with small oval leaves variegated with white and pink. Some people grow it in a hanging basket whilst others set it where the stems can hang down over the edge of a shelf.

It is easy to grow and will flourish in good garden soil or a compost of loam and leaf-mould. New plants can be obtained by division, in spring or summer, or 'cuttings' may be set to root in pots of sandy soil, placed in a Fig. 68. Ophiopogon jaburan (Liriope)                                          glass-covered box,  or under a large jam jar. By removing the tip of the shoots occa­sionally, more compact plants are obtained.

Opuntia (Prickly Pear Cactus)

The Opuntias have thick, flat, succulent stems in which food and moisture are stored, enabling these plants to survive for long periods of drought. There are many species and varieties; some have smooth and others prickly stems. The common name prickly pear has been given to them because certain species produce large edible pear-like fruits.

They are suitable for growing in a sunny window because they are almost hardy and are not affected by a dry atmosphere. Opuntias can be kept in the same pot for many years.

The best compost consists of light garden soil or a mixture of loam, gravel and sand. Propagation is by detaching sections of the stems and inserting them in pots of sandy soil. No propagator is needed and the pots of'cutting' may be set to root on the window-sill.

Young plants may be used as stocks for grafting other cacti.

Orchids

Orchids have always been regarded as aristocrats of the plant world, and for this reason most people think that they are difficult to grow, and that they require tropical conditions for their successful cultivation.

One of the secrets of success is to obtain the plants at the correct time of the year. They should be purchased in May or June, after artificial heat has been dispensed with for the season. From May until October no artificial heat is needed and from October to May a maximum temperature of 450 F. is sufficient, but the temperature should not drop below 400 F.

Nurserymen will supply plants in summer which will bloom in the following winter and spring; these are more expensive than seedlings or young plants, but they are the best type for the beginner in orchid growing. They will not require repotting for a year or two and it will be necessary only to keep the compost moist.

Fig. 69. Coelogyne cristata

The plants must be placed in a well-lighted position, away from fire heat in winter and the leaves must be sponged frequently to remove dirt, and to keep them fresh and in a healthy condition.

The best three types of orchids for the beginner are varieties of Cymbidium, Coelogyne and Cypripedium.

Cymbidium has large yellowish-green, flatfish, bulb-like struc­tures which are formed by the overlapping bases of the long, narrow, strap-shaped leaves. From the bases of these pseudo-bulbs, long arching sprays of butterfly-like flowers are formed in spring, in many shades of yellow, pink and red, and they last in bloom for many weeks. Cymbidium blooms most profusely when the roots are pot-bound and therefore it does not need to be repotted for several years. The most popular species of Cymbidium are C. ebumeum, with ivory white fragrant flowers, and C. lowianutn, which bears up to thirty flowers on a spike. In the latter species the sepals and petals are greenish white and the 'lip' white with crimson edges.

Coelogyne is easily distinguished from Cymbidium because its pseudo-bulbs are smoother and more rounded; they are green and somewhat resemble large gooseberries in shape and size; two leaves are developed from the tip of each 'bulb' and these are about \ an inch wide and 5 inches long. The most easily grown form is C. cristata which has large white blooms on slender stems in spring; the flower stems arise at the bases of the 'bulbs' (Fig. 69).

Cypripedium insignc is the easiest of this genus to grow. It does not have a pseudo-bulb and the flower grows from a cluster of broad strap-shaped leaves. The flowers are formed singly on upright stems about 6 inches in length; they have a large, flat, top petal (standard), two narrow side petals, and a central petal or pouch which somewhat resembles a slipper—hence the popular name of lady's slipper orchid.

As none of these orchids is deciduous (drop their leaves in the winter), they require watering at all seasons of the year. However, less water is needed during the autumn and winter months because the plants are not very active in winter and use only a small amount.

All these orchids can be propagated by dividing them in spring after the flowers have faded (Fig. 70). Cymbidium and Coelo­gyne   require   a   compost  of 3  parts of fibrous peat fibrous loam and some crusted builders' brick and coarse sand. Cypripedium needs equal proportions of fibrous loam and peat or leaf-mould. In all cases the pots must be provided with plenty of crocks for drainage, especially for culture of the epiphytes (which grow in the forks of tree branches in their native country). Cymbidium and Coelogyne are epiphytes whereas Cypripedium is a terrestrial orchid (grows on the ground) and requires less drainage material.

Fig ?a Coelogyne correctly

Or

Osmunda    fibre,    I    of divided and potted

Pandanus veitchii (Screw Pine)

Although this plant is used for room decoration, it cannot be grown entirely in the home. It may be used as an occasional occupant of rooms, especially in summer, but during the rest of the year a warm moist greenhouse is necessary.

Its attractiveness lies in its tuft of foliage which is variegated with green and cream. The edges of the long strap-shaped leaves, which resemble those of the pineapple, are furnished with sharp spines.

Pandanus is not an easy plant to grow to perfection. The flower­pot must be exceptionally well drained and a porous compost used for potting. Two parts of loam and equal parts of peat and sharp sand form the most satisfactory ingredients for its successful growth. It must also be watered with care; water must not be given until the soil becomes fairly dry. The minimum winter temperature the plant may withstand is 6o° F.

Side shoots are formed on the stems and these can be detached, inserted in pots of sandy soil and set in a warm propagator to form roots.

Panicum (see Oplismenus)

Partridge-breasted Aloe (see Aloe) Passiflora (Passion Flower)

Although strictly a greenhouse plant, it can be grown in a well-lit cool room where the atmosphere is not charged with fumes from fires.

Most of the species are vigorous climbers having slender stems, furnished with spring-like tendrils, and palmate leaves, and bear very interesting flowers in summer. The most widely grown form is P. caerulea which has flattish blooms of rich blue. The popular name of passion flower was given to the plant in allusion to the supposed representation in the flower of the implements of the Crucifixion. The outermost perianth parts of the flower are five sepals and five petals which were thought to represent the ten apostles who witnessed the Crucifixion. Within these, there is a ring of filaments suggesting the crown of thorns, whilst the five stamens represent the wounds, and the three stigmas the nails used to fix Christ to the Cross.

For potting, the John Innes Potting Compost No. 1 gives excellent results. During the summer months, the compost must be kept moist, but in winter only sufficient water should be given to prevent the foliage from flagging. In order to keep the plants compact in growth, the side shoots should be pruned back to two leaves in March or April. Additional plants can be obtained by layering shoots into other pots of compost. 'Cuttings' may also be inserted in a warm propagator in spring.

Pelargonium (Geranium)

The plants, popularly called geraniums, which are grown in pots and are used for decorating greenhouses and rooms and which may be planted out in the summer flower-beds, are botani-cally named Pelargonium. The true Geranium is a deciduous (leaf-losing), hardy plant, commonly called crane's bill because of its long beak-like seed pods.

Species of Pelargonium may be divided into four sections as follows:

1. Zonal varieties (Fig. 71)
2. Ivy-leaved varieties
3. Show or fancy types
4. Scented-leaved kinds

Fig. 71. Pelargonium zonale (Geranium)

(1) Zonal species (P. zonale) are the most popular type of Pelargonium and have long-stalked, roundish, wavy-edged leaves covered with fine hairs. There are innumerable widely grown varieties in shades of red and pink as well as many variegated leaved kinds. They are useful for room decoration but must have the maximum amount of light. During the summer months, the compost should not be allowed to remain in a dry condition for more than a few hours, but in winter only a little moisture is needed to prevent the stems from shrivelling. When in full growth, a watering with a complete fertiliser may be given once a week. Flowers may be produced in winter if all flower buds arc removed up to the end of August.

1. The ivy-leaved Pelargonium, with its trailing stems clothed with smooth, green leaves, requires similar conditions to P. zonale, but it is not so successful as a window plant although with care and plenty of light it can become very attractive.
2. Show and fancy species of Pelargonium are quite distinct from the two mentioned above for the flowers, instead of being round and flatfish, are funnel-shaped. The leaves are palmate and toothed. These species have a limited season of flowering and arc in their full beauty during July and August. Many coloured varieties are obtainable from nurserymen.

Scented-leaved species of Pelargonium are varieties bearing leaves which emit a lemon or peppermint scent, which, in addition to their fragrance